View Full Version : Drag tires?
vr6dub
07-30-2008, 09:39 AM
im going back to hrp this friday. im buying some drag radials and was wondering wut drag radials do you guys that go to the track alot recommend. im debating on bf goodrich or some MT's. so wuts the best tires that u guys use, these will be staying on my car so no slicks. these tires will be daily driven once and awhile.
pushrod do you have aim? also is anyone down to going to hrp this friday.
Matticus
07-30-2008, 09:59 AM
MT streets are bad ass, so are BFG's I don't think you can really go wrong with either DR.
projectcivicjp
07-30-2008, 10:40 AM
MT streets are bad ass, so are BFG's I don't think you can really go wrong with either DR.
i agree! bfg's are freaking nice but then again so are MT
Skoodles
07-30-2008, 11:07 AM
just take some walmart tires go do a 1minute burnout till they are completly bald. drop the pressure down to about 12psi in each and you are good to go. home made drag slicks FTW:beavisbutthead:
Pushrod346
07-30-2008, 06:03 PM
The 275/40/17 MT ET are nice, as are the Hoosier DR's of the same size. Those have enough traction to a-bomb the rear end, especially with a 3.73. The M6's break the teeth on the ring/pinion.
Sluggish has the Hoosiers in that size. When they were new, we were doing 1st gear punches on spray (~550rwhp/~600rwtq?) and they wouldn't spin on the STREET. I have the same tires in 315/35's. They would hold on motor in 1st (about 540/500). Mine bit so hard they spun on the RIMS and I had to peel the wheel weights off lol. After a while, both of our sets got feathered up and they started loosing traction.
I would like to try the 315 MT's again, but they aren't making them for a while, so I'll probably break down and get another set of Hoosiers.
The more traction you have in 1st gear, the less time the 10-bolt is going to last. You could put a dry nitrous kit on for a little more than what a set of DR's and rock out with another 100rwhp. :)
You should get a wideband and bring it to me for some tuning work. I may even buy one to build a portable setup. :D
Matticus
07-30-2008, 07:31 PM
You should get a wideband and bring it to me for some tuning work. I may even buy one to build a portable setup. :D
How lean do you usually go with the ls1's?
vr6dub
07-30-2008, 09:25 PM
well right now im running 275/40/17 bfgoodrich gforc t/a kdw's and they are ok but spin like crazy. pushrod i do need a tune bad, as soon as i fix my misfire in one of my cylinders and rebuild my tranny im gonna go get it dyno tuned.
Pushrod346
07-31-2008, 12:44 PM
How lean do you usually go with the ls1's?
I run them 12.8:1 N/A, 11.5:1 on spray. I ran mine at about 10.8 with 16 degrees of timing until I got everything hunky dory, then I leaned it out a bit and bumped the timing up. Still went 132mph on the turd tune with the baby pills though. :D
Sluggish's car is running closer to 11.0 on spray because it's balls to the wall and I wanted a little more safety margin in it. For some reason his MAF doesn't respond to as much is going through it, so I have to aim for 10.x:1 to get bottom 11's, so it's a turd N/A with the spray tune in it.
Getting a dynotune from one of the Houston shops is a crap shoot. Some people get good work, others get shit work. I made a total guess tune on my friends car (in his garage with no wideband lol) so it would run good enough to drive to G-Force. He made like 380rwhp, when he should have made 410+. They tuned it on their dyno and picked up a staggaring 6rwhp. :mynameisben:
Matticus
07-31-2008, 01:21 PM
I run them 12.8:1 N/A, 11.5:1 on spray. I ran mine at about 10.8 with 16 degrees of timing until I got everything hunky dory, then I leaned it out a bit and bumped the timing up. Still went 132mph on the turd tune with the baby pills though. :D
Sluggish's car is running closer to 11.0 on spray because it's balls to the wall and I wanted a little more safety margin in it. For some reason his MAF doesn't respond to as much is going through it, so I have to aim for 10.x:1 to get bottom 11's, so it's a turd N/A with the spray tune in it.
Getting a dynotune from one of the Houston shops is a crap shoot. Some people get good work, others get shit work. I made a total guess tune on my friends car (in his garage with no wideband lol) so it would run good enough to drive to G-Force. He made like 380rwhp, when he should have made 410+. They tuned it on their dyno and picked up a staggaring 6rwhp. :mynameisben:
Do you run dual wb sensors? How does that work? Do you datalog or do you just watch the gauge and make small changes?
Sorry for whoring this thread up.
Pushrod346
07-31-2008, 02:12 PM
Do you run dual wb sensors? How does that work? Do you datalog or do you just watch the gauge and make small changes?
Sorry for whoring this thread up.
I have a single on the passenger side bank, but I can switch it over to the driver side. I don't run a direct port, it's a plate kit, so it gets pretty even distribution. I can also watch the injector duty cycle on each bank to make sure it's getting even fueling. 80% of the fuel is coming from the injectors anyway.
I have the advanced input/output on the interface for my HPTuners, I just haven't wired my wideband up to it yet (lazy lol). I do datalog all my other stuff on my laptop and watch for knock, commanded timing, etc. My interface can also do black-box data logging (no computer connected), but I haven't used it yet.
I usually run it up to 3rd gear and stab it just before the window comes on and watch it (scary), or get a friend to watch it. It runs pretty consistant. I make a few passes like that and tweak it a bit. Re-write calibration only takes 30 seconds. Dynotuning is great, but it is not as good as real world drive-the-bitch tuning. So far I've tuned both of my cars, Sluggish's z28 and Trailblazer SS, and three of my other friends Camaros.
Mine puts down close to 700rwhp on the 150 pills with 11.5:1 compression ratio and pump gas with no knock, but it damn sure didn't start out like that right after I slapped the kit on it. Tuning your own stuff is the only way to get good results.
03lofront
07-31-2008, 02:52 PM
since you asked about tires id go with the MT street radials. the work great at the track and even pretty good on the street. for me when i had my mustang they lasted longer than the BFGs on he street as long as your not out acting stupid every day doing random burnouts and shit. the BFGs after you do a few burnouts at the track they start to get hard and loose their sticky compound. the Nittos are really good to. they arent as soft as the MT or BFGs but they work wel for lower horse power cars. Me personally i like the MTs bc they have more like a slick for their wrinkle type side wall at low psi and have a better compound in the tire which means you have a better chance of hookin up over the other tires. sorry for the novel just my 2 cents tho
Matticus
07-31-2008, 08:59 PM
I have a single on the passenger side bank, but I can switch it over to the driver side. I don't run a direct port, it's a plate kit, so it gets pretty even distribution. I can also watch the injector duty cycle on each bank to make sure it's getting even fueling. 80% of the fuel is coming from the injectors anyway.
I have the advanced input/output on the interface for my HPTuners, I just haven't wired my wideband up to it yet (lazy lol). I do datalog all my other stuff on my laptop and watch for knock, commanded timing, etc. My interface can also do black-box data logging (no computer connected), but I haven't used it yet.
I usually run it up to 3rd gear and stab it just before the window comes on and watch it (scary), or get a friend to watch it. It runs pretty consistant. I make a few passes like that and tweak it a bit. Re-write calibration only takes 30 seconds. Dynotuning is great, but it is not as good as real world drive-the-bitch tuning. So far I've tuned both of my cars, Sluggish's z28 and Trailblazer SS, and three of my other friends Camaros.
Mine puts down close to 700rwhp on the 150 pills with 11.5:1 compression ratio and pump gas with no knock, but it damn sure didn't start out like that right after I slapped the kit on it. Tuning your own stuff is the only way to get good results.
IC, I was always curious how people ran wb's on v8's. I assumed that monitoring 4cyl's would be good enough, because the difference in reading from bank to bank would be so marginal that it hardly matters. The software you are running seems pretty damn easy to use. I haven't ever used it but, when comparing it to what I use for my rsx it seems as straight forward as it gets. Thanks for the insight dude
+1 rep (I hardly ever use this but, now seems like a good time :rotfl:)
Pushrod346
07-31-2008, 10:59 PM
IC, I was always curious how people ran wb's on v8's. I assumed that monitoring 4cyl's would be good enough, because the difference in reading from bank to bank would be so marginal that it hardly matters. The software you are running seems pretty damn easy to use. I haven't ever used it but, when comparing it to what I use for my rsx it seems as straight forward as it gets. Thanks for the insight dude
+1 rep (I hardly ever use this but, now seems like a good time :rotfl:)
I should say it only takes 30 seconds to write the new tune into the PCM. I still have to manually modify all the AFR multiplier tables and such lol. I wish the "autotune" was available for me, but it's still in it's infancy. I have been reading/learning constantly for probably 2.5 years, and I only find out more stuff that I don't know. :)
Thread = owned lol, sorry dude.
vr6dub, I agree with 03lofront, the BFG's don't last nearly long enough. The Nitto DR's seemed to hook just as nicely for me as the BFG's, I would check them out.
vBulletin® v3.7.4, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.